Fraulein Kost Design Two

My second design for Fraulein Kost uses the colour purple. I thought that this colour could be seen as seductive to. The eyebrows are in keeping with the 1920's. Everything else is in reference to the club kids and club culture in particular Princess Julia from the Blitz Kids. I wanted the look to be colourful and to stand out like Princess Julia did Therefore everything is purple including the eyebrows. To create this look, the materials needed are: 

- Illamasqua Cream Foundatiion CF 135 or Kryolan ultra foundation.

- Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer

- Illamasqua Satin Primer

- Pritt Stick

- CrownBrush UK Eyeshadow palette

- Makeup Revolution purple heaven single eyeshadow.

- Maybeline Eye Studio Casting Drama Ultra-Violet Gel Liner.

- Eyelure false eyelashes in Definition. 

- Vichy Dermablend Powder.

- Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Morale.

- Illamasqua lipstick in Kontrol. 

The idea for this design is to block out the eyebrows using glue to then draw them back in using gel liner. 

To block out the eyebrows: 

- Brush the hairs upward with an eyebrow brush. 

- Use a pritt stick to smooth the hairs. Glue in an upward motion. 

- Take a spatula with a small bit of glue on the end to smooth over the layer of glue. Make sure all the hairs are covered and are smooth. 

- Powder with a powder puff over the top of the glue to seal. 

- Take a white foundation, I used Illamasqua Rich Liquid RF 100, and stipple the colour over the brow hairs. If your hairs are quite dark there will need to be layers of white to cover this.

- Stipple on the foundation with a stipple brush. 

- Using the foundation used for your base, stipple the skin colour over the white brow. 

- Powder to seal.

Above is the outcome of my design. Now that I have practised it I think I can develop my skills to make the eye stronger and the brows further blocked out. I think also that the face should be contoured a bit to give extra structure to the look. This is something I can develop.

Jackson Pollock

The late Jackson Pollock was heavily involved with the 1930's artistic movement. His work mainly consisted of drip paintings with the use of multiple colours. I have chosen to look at Jackson Pollock's work for the inspiration for my contemporary cabaret character. 

Jackson Pollock. Viewed 26/11/14

The colour palette reminds me of that seen in Alexander McQueen's Last Show in 2010, almost 70 years later. I think that my character of Fraulein Kost would have hues of blue incorperated into her makeup to show that she is a cold character. Pollock created the look by flicking the paint onto the canvas, perhaps this could be a technique when applying the colour makeup onto the skin. 

Jackson Pollock. Viewed 26/11/14

The painting Pollock created make me think of the emotional state that he was in during the creation of them. I enjoy how there are multiple shades of the same colour. Leading the eye through multiple stages of the piece to the centre where the lightness comes out. The whole painting makes me feel cold as though this is a beautiful but sad piece. I could portray this feeling into the design for Kost as she must be lonely going from man to man. 

Jackson Pollock struggled with alcohol through his entire life. Perhaps the paintings he created signify the emotional state that he was in. The Great Depression saw Pollock fall further into alcoholism where he created some of his best pieces of work. The colour palette has definitely inspired me to try out blue colouring within my design for contemporary cabaret character, along with purple shades inspired by Princess Julia. 

Princess Julia Blitz Kid

The inspiration behind my final makeup design comes from Alexander McQueen's 2010 Last Show and also Princess Julia, the original Blitz Kid in the 1980's. Princess Julia came to fame in the 1980's as part of the club culture known as the Blitz Kids. Her style was in keeping with the time, very out there and experimental. 

Princess Julia. 1980's. Viewed 26/11/14

Extreme, colourful makeup playing on the shapes and structure of the face. Her makeup was experimental, in keeping with the makeup styles seen in the 1980's like Leigh Bowery. Princess Julia made her way onto the 1980's club scene to become a DJ, something continued today. The whole styling of clothes and makeup made Princess Julia an interesting character. For example in the image above, she is covered, very conservative. However, in many other images she is seen exposing herself. Perhaps she liked the contradiction of characters that could be created through the medium of makeup, hair and styling. 

Princess Julia. Blitz Kids, 1980's. Viewed 26/11/14

The image of Princess Julia made me think straight away of Fraulein Kost and what she would have looked like in the this era. The dark lips and heavy eye make the look seductive, which is one of the main attributes of Fraulein Kost. The colour palette here also inspiration to me as it looks mysterious. To expand on the colour palette seen here I looked at Alexander McQueen's 2010 Last Show and the colour palette and textures used on the clothes. 

Alexander McQueen 2010 Last Show. Viewed 26/11/14

The mixing of the purple with the blue creates a subtle palette that can be mixed to create a makeup design. I definitely feel inspired by the colour palette seen here as the purples add a mysterious aspect with the blues bringing the cold. I think this represents the character of Fraulein Kost, because she is mysterious and then appears cold when confronting Schneider. Therefore I would like to incorporate blues and purples into my design.

The face chart above shows the hair and makeup look I have designed inspired by Princess Julia and Alexander McQueen. The design incorporates the colours of purple and blue with green around the eye. The eyebrows are thin to keep in keeping with the 1930's style.

Alexander McQueen Last Show 2010

The inspiration behind my Fraulein Kost hair design comes from Alexander McQueen's Spring 2010 Last Show. The hair featured in the show was of futuristic qualities with large structures. My inspiration came from the braiding. I thought that I could contemporise Fraulein Kost by including a braid down the centre of the hair to change the structure of the hair, much like McQueen has featured here. I didn't want to braid the whole hair because the hair design still had to be in keeping with the 1930's style.

Alexander McQueen. 2010. Last Show. Viewed 26/11/14

Alexander McQueen. 2010. Last Show. Viewed 26/11/14

As seen in the image above, the braid is down the centre of the hair creating a divide between the two structures. This has inspired me to create a braid down the centre of the hair to divide the hairstyle created. I think that this will add a contemporary twist on to a 1930's bob. The texture of the bob needs to be different to take it away from a traditional 1930's look. Therefore I think I will take the textured sideburns seen in the first image and apply this to the structure of the bob to create texture. The frizzy hair can be made larger to create an alternative silhouette as the 1930's bob was very sleek, therefore I want to create the opposite. The Plato's Atlantis Last Show has really inspired me in terms of textures of the hair and the structures created. I think I can take this forward and interpret it into my idea for a contemporary Fraulein Kost.

In response to the inspiration, I have decided the above hair chart. This incorporates the braid from Alexander McQueen's Spring Last Show 2010 to bring the style into a contemporary state. I have kept the sleekness of a 1930's bob on the side of the hair before the texture comes back in to play expanding out create a different silhouette. The hair will still be styled in a 1930's bob but will be made contemporary by the textures and structure.

Fraulein Kost Design One

My first design for the character Fraulein Kost consists of the colour red. I have decided to use red in this design as it is the colour of seduction, and Kost is the character of seduction. The idea was to have a heavily contoured face using a red colour. The lips and brows would be in keeping with the 1920's. The brows would be thin and the lips would be shaped. Around the eye area is heavy shading using a red blusher, this was to bring out the contour and highlight the bone structure. To create this look the materials used are: 

- Illamasqua Cream Foundation in CF 135.

- Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer.

- Crownbrush UK eye shadow palette

- M.A.C Chromographic Pencil in Basic Red.

- Ben Nye Dark Brown Eye Pencil

- Illamasqua Cream Blusher in Libido

- Ben Nye Wk-8 Old character, lightest colour

- Illamasqua lipstick in Encounter 

Above are the images from my test of the design. The red blusher blended with the cream highlighter to create a pink tone instead of the desired contoured effect. I think this happened because both products were cream based. The look was a lot less subtle than I had planned. Therefore I will not be using this design to create my Contemporary character. 

Fraulein Kost Moodboards

Above is the moodboard for my hair inspiration for the character of Kost based on the 1980's club kids. To make the look contemporary I thought about adding a braid into the hair. The hair itself would need to be big, with lots of volume. There would need to be another colour to make the hair stand out. So my idea is all about the colour and texture that can be created in the hair, following my research into the club culture of the 80's. 

My makeup moodboard once again focuses on the use of colour. Many 1980's figures rarely went without lots of colour on the face. Leigh Bowery for example was always seen with multiple colours on the face and the brighter the better. From the research conducted, I found that the makeup structured the face and was always a tone of one colour. 

The scenery moodboard is the same for Fraulein Schneider's work. The scene I have chosen to work on for Kost is set in Schneiders living room. The furniture is dated and old. Everything in the room is dull apart from Fraulein Kost's personality, which I think needs to reflect in the look that I design. 

What does the character want?

Fraulein Kost wants to continue living at Fraulein Schneider's whilst still being able to see the sailors. She gets her way by manipulating Schneider into thinking that Kost will leave if she cannot see the sailors anymore. If Schneider didn't allow her to stay then Kost would have left and found somewhere where this would be allowed, leaving Schneider out of pocket. Kost knows exactly how to play Schneider because she knows that Schneider needs the money. Therefore she can threaten to leave and Schneider would let her do anything. Ultimately Kost gets her way.