Thursday, 4 December 2014

Evaluation

Evaluation

Goodbye to Berlin has been an interesting project. The research embarked on for Weimar Berlin and also Contemporary Club Culture has expanded my knowledge and given a wider perspective on other cultures. I have enjoyed immensely the research aspect of this project as history interests me. Weimar Belin was a particularly interesting short lived time which I think was revived through club kids and blitz kids. The research has shown me that art is a continuing movement and inspiration for a creation can be found anywhere if you look hard enough.

I have struggled this term with time management. I underestimated how much would be expected of us in second year, therefore ideas I may have had weren't made note of immediately which would have helped with the creative process. My research for inspiration for the contemporary cabaret character came quickly but wasn't accounted for until I had thoroughly thought out if the creative process of how I got to my design made sense. I very much enjoyed creating a contemporary character because I get to work with colour and be experimental with the shades, structure and texture that can be created.

For the timed assessment I worked with Sandra. Before the day I had not seen her design at all so therefore was going it to the studio blind. This meant that I needed all the information possible from Sandra as the designer to help me understand the design she wanted me to create. I got very confused by the step by step provided but Sandra was on hand to answer my questions. The shades of products used weren't always written down therefore I had to ask. Sandra watched over me to make sure I was creating everything to her satisfaction and told me when she liked something or not. Through my confusion with all the details provided I created the wrong parting in the hair. However the end result is still historical. Next time, I would like to have the information beforehand which will help my understanding of what is expected of me. Also, more thorough instructions would have been helpful so that I didn’t need to keep asking so many questions. If the designer wasn’t around I would have struggled completely.

My own design reflects historical 1930’s characters well. I have exaggerated the ageing of the skin so that the end result could be used on TV and Film. I have thought about every angle of the design, so that the hair works when the character would turn around.


My favourite part about the project is all the characters of club culture, Weimar Belin and old literature that I now have knowledge of. I think this knowledge will help in the future in TV and Film. The hairstyles created have taught me how to create period hair for the 1920’s – 1930’s. The project has definitely expanded my skills and has made me grow as a make-up artist. I have thoroughly enjoyed this project and will now be claiming Party Monster as one of my favourite films.

Tuesday, 2 December 2014

Bibliography

Bibliography

Cabaret-berlin.com, (2014). Kadeko | Cabaret Berlin. [online] Available at: http://www.cabaret-berlin.com/?p=87 [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Cinefantastiqueonline.com, (2014). The Making of Metropolis: Actress Brigitte Helm | Cinefantastique Online. [online] Available at: http://cinefantastiqueonline.com/2010/05/the-making-of-metropolis-actress-brigitte-helm/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Deutsche-kinemathek.de, (2014). Veranstaltungen 2008 | Deutsche Kinemathek - Museum für Film und Fernsehen. [online] Available at: http://www.deutsche-kinemathek.de/de/aktuell/veranstaltungen-rueckblick/2008 [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Hliakau, A. (2014). The Blitz Club || Blitz Kids Gallery. [online] Theblitzclub.com. Available at: http://www.theblitzclub.com/gallery-bk.php [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Metzger, R. and Brandstätter, C. (2007). Berlin in the twenties. London: Thames & Hudson.
Ottodix.org, (2014). Otto Dix - Catalog Paintings. [online] Available at: http://www.ottodix.org/index/catalog-paintings [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). Ayahuaska!!!. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/2955555977638755/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). Berlin 1920s and early 1930s. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/409968372298933549/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). Contemporary Club Culture. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/contemporary-club-culture/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). Fräulein Schneider makeup inspiration. [online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/349591989799008002/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Pinterest, (2014). 1920s. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/444941638159069054/ [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Robertweingarten.com, (2014). Jackson_Pollock_2. [online] Available at: http://www.robertweingarten.com/pollock_pages/jackson_pollock_2.html [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
style.com, (2014). Alexander McQueen Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear - Collection - Gallery - Style.com. [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/collection/26 [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
The Evening Standard, (2010). Wacky and worthy collide on Design Awards shortlist. [online] Available at: http://www.standard.co.uk/news/wacky-and-worthy-collide-on-design-awards-shortlist-6778409.html [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].
Theblitzkids.com, (2014). princessjulia. [online] Available at: http://www.theblitzkids.com/site_archive/clubforheroes1/princessjulia.html [Accessed 10 Dec. 2014].

Goodbye to Berlin Technical File Sign Off Sheet and Evaluation


The technical folder created for TV and Film will be a great tool to help me out in the future. The folder contains explanations of how to carry out each makeup look and hairstyle. I started by creating a product list which is a good reference for when I need to use a product to create a certain look. The step by steps I included will remind me how to create the look. My favourite part of the technical file is Abstract Painting and Portrait Painting. I think this style of work will help me as a designer to comprehend what products work well together, whether grease based or powdered. The continuity images have helped me realise the importance of every aspect of the design being the same. One thing wrong will be noticeable and may ruin the overall design. The timed assessment pieces helped me see what it would be like working under the supervision of a designer. I think that this was good practise for the future, giving me hindsight to what the industry will be like.

Product List

Product List:


Makeup:

-      Dermashield
-      Kryolan Liquid Latex
-      Pritt Stick
-      L’oreal Skin Perfection Cleansing Range
-      Clean and Clear oil free moisturiser
-      Illamasqua Cream Foundation in CF135
-      Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation in RF100
-      Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette
-      Illamasqua Matte and Satin Primer
-      Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer
-      Illamasqua Translucent Powder
-      Vichy Setting Powder
-      Illamasqua powder blusher in Morale and Ambition
-      Illamasqua Cream Blusher in Libido
-      Ben Nye WK-8 Old Aged Character Kit
-      Ben Nye Dark Brown Eye Pencil
-      CrownBrush Uk Eyeshadow Palette
-      Make-up Revolution eyeshadow in Purple Heaven
-      Kryolan shades in Rio eyeshadow
-      Maybeline Gel Liner in Ultra Violet
-      M.A.C Chromographic Pencil in Basic Red
-      Eyelure eyelashes in Definition
-      Illamasqua Lipstick in Encounter and Kontrol
-      Kryolan Supracolour Palette
-      Kryolan Aquacolour Palette
-      HD Brow Palette
-      M.A.C Lipmix in Black and Red
-      Makeup Revolution Redemption Palette in Iconic 2.

Hair:

-      Kryolan Colour Hair Spray in Purple
-      V Grips and grips
-      Straighteners
-      Curling Tongs
-      Hairspray
-      Hairband
-      Paddle Brush
-      Pintail Comb
-      Wide Toothed Comb
-      Afro comb
-      Tights
-      Wig
-      Heat Protector
-      Shine Spray
-      Ben Nye Silver Hair Colour

Contemporary Cabaret Fraulein Kost


For this design you will need: 

- Illamasqua Matte Primer
- Illamasqua Liquid Cream Foundation in CF135
- Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer
- Vichy Setting Powder
- Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Morale 
- Kryolan Eyeshadow shades in Rio
- Makeup Revolution Monoshadow in Purple Heaven
- CrownBrush Uk Eyeshadow Palette
- Maybeline Gel Liner in Ultra Violet 
- Illamasqua Lipstick in Kontrol 
- Pritt Stick 
- Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation in RF100
- Spatula 

For the hair design you will need: 

- V Grips
- Straighteners
- Afro Comb
- Pintail Comb 
- Hair Grips
- Kryolan coloured spray in purple
- Cape to protect clothes. 
- Hairspray



Hair step by step: 

- Cape the client
- Brush the hair free of knots
- Part the hair in the middle
- From either side of the parting take equal strands of hair and braid into a french plait. Secure half way down the back of the head with a grip. 
- Section the hair taking the hair at the base of the neck. 
- Protect the hair with heat spray.
- With small sections of hair, take the last third of the hair and wrap around a v-grip in a figure of eight motion. Hold the hair in place at the bottom of the grip and place a straightener over the top and hold for 20 seconds. 
- Remove the hair from the pin and brush out using a comb. 
- Repeat over the whole head.
- Once completed, brush the straight section of the hair smooth to the head and pin in place.
- Pull the afro up and pin slightly so the afro is the same height as the ears. 
- Tease the afro with the afro come to make larger. Spray in place with hairspray.
- Use the purple coloured hairspray across the roots of the braid down half of the straight hair.

Makeup Step By Step:

- Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin. 
- Take out the eyebrows before creating a base on the skin. Brush the eyebrow hairs down. On a spatula, take some glue from a pritt stick and smooth across the brow. Repeat until all of the brow hairs are smooth to the skin. Powder the brow using a puff and Vichy setting powder. Apply Illamasqua Rich Liquid RF100 across the brow with a stipple brush. Apply the chosen foundation for the skin colour, once again stipple over the brow. Blend and seal with Vichy setting powder.
- Prep the skin with Illamasqua Matte Primer. 
- Use Illamasqua Cream Foundation in CF135 across the face and neck. Buff to blend even. 
- Use Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer to conceal any imperfections.
- Get the client to suck in their cheeks and use Makeup Revolution Monoshadow in Purple Heaven across the bone of the cheek to create a structured cheek. Pull this up and around the temples and hair line. 
- Use Illamasqua powder blusher in Morale to highlight around the line created. 
- Use the darkest blue eyeshadow in Kryolan shades in Rio across the cheekbone to add definition. 
- Create a smokey eye up to the brow bone using purple shades from CrownBrush Uk eyeshadow palette.
- Over the brows use the greens from Kryolan shades in Rio to outline the eye. Pull the shadow down the bridge of the nose. 
- Use Maybeline gel liner in Ultra Violet to create new eyebrows. Pull these up to the temple in a thin line, the line goes down the bridge of the nose. 
- Apply Illamasqua Lipstick in Kontrol across the whole lip. 









Fraulein Kost Design Three






For this design you will need: 

- Illamasqua Matte Primer
- Illamasqua Liquid Cream Foundation in CF135
- Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer
- Vichy Setting Powder
- Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Morale 
- Kryolan Eyeshadow shades in Rio
- Makeup Revolution Monoshadow in Purple Heaven
- CrownBrush Uk Eyeshadow Palette
- Maybeline Gel Liner in Ultra Violet 
- Illamasqua Lipstick in Kontrol 
- Pritt Stick 
- Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation in RF100
- Spatula 


For the hair design you will need: 

- V Grips
- Straighteners
- Afro Comb
- Pintail Comb 
- Hair Grips
- Kryolan coloured spray in purple
- Cape to protect clothes. 
- Hairspray


Hair step by step: 

- Cape the client
- Brush the hair free of knots
- Part the hair in the middle
- From either side of the parting take equal strands of hair and braid into a french plait. Secure half way down the back of the head with a grip. 
- Section the hair taking the hair at the base of the neck. 
- Protect the hair with heat spray.
- With small sections of hair, take the last third of the hair and wrap around a v-grip in a figure of eight motion. Hold the hair in place at the bottom of the grip and place a straightener over the top and hold for 20 seconds. 
- Remove the hair from the pin and brush out using a comb. 
- Repeat over the whole head.
- Once completed, brush the straight section of the hair smooth to the head and pin in place.
- Pull the afro up and pin slightly so the afro is the same height as the ears. 
- Tease the afro with the afro comb to make larger. Spray in place with hairspray.
- Use the purple coloured hairspray across the roots of the braid down half of the straight hair.


Makeup Step By Step:

- Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin. 
- Take out the eyebrows before creating a base on the skin. Brush the eyebrow hairs down. On a spatula, take some glue from a pritt stick and smooth across the brow. Repeat until all of the brow hairs are smooth to the skin. Powder the brow using a puff and Vichy setting powder. Apply Illamasqua Rich Liquid RF100 across the brow with a stipple brush. Apply the chosen foundation for the skin colour, once again stipple over the brow. Blend and seal with Vichy setting powder.
- Prep the skin with Illamasqua Matte Primer. 
- Use Illamasqua Cream Foundation in CF135 across the face and neck. Buff to blend even. 
- Use Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer to conceal any imperfections.
- Get the client to suck in their cheeks and use Makeup Revolution Monoshadow in Purple Heaven across the bone of the cheek to create a structured cheek. Pull this up and around the temples and hair line. 
- Use Illamasqua powder blusher in Morale to highlight around the line created. 
- Use the darkest blue eyeshadow in Kryolan shades in Rio across the cheekbone to add definition. 
- Create a smokey eye up to the brow bone using purple shades from CrownBrush Uk eyeshadow palette.
- Over the brows use the greens from Kryolan shades in Rio to outline the eye. Pull the shadow down the bridge of the nose. 
- Use Maybeline gel liner in Ultra Violet to create new eyebrows. Pull these up to the temple in a thin line, the line goes down the bridge of the nose. 

- Apply Illamasqua Lipstick in Kontrol across the whole lip. 


Displaying photo 3.JPG



From my practise of the look I know now that I need to work on the boldness of the colouring. I need to work on the smokey eye and the blocking out of the brows. The brows need to be hidden more and can be smoother. The smokey eye needs to be blended better.

Tuesday, 25 November 2014

Fraulein Kost Design Two


My second design for Fraulein Kost uses the colour purple. I thought that this colour could be seen as seductive to. The eyebrows are in keeping with the 1920's. Everything else is in reference to the club kids and club culture in particular Princess Julia from the Blitz Kids. I wanted the look to be colourful and to stand out like Princess Julia did Therefore everything is purple including the eyebrows. To create this look, the materials needed are: 

- Illamasqua Cream Foundatiion CF 135 or Kryolan ultra foundation.
- Kryolan Dermacolour Camoflague Concealer
- Illamasqua Satin Primer
- Pritt Stick
- CrownBrush UK Eyeshadow palette
- Makeup Revolution purple heaven single eyeshadow.
- Maybeline Eye Studio Casting Drama Ultra-Violet Gel Liner.
- Eyelure false eyelashes in Definition. 
- Vichy Dermablend Powder.
- Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Morale.
- Illamasqua lipstick in Kontrol. 

The idea for this design is to block out the eyebrows using glue to then draw them back in using gel liner. 



To block out the eyebrows: 

- Brush the hairs upward with an eyebrow brush. 
- Use a pritt stick to smooth the hairs. Glue in an upward motion. 
- Take a spatula with a small bit of glue on the end to smooth over the layer of glue. Make sure all the hairs are covered and are smooth. 
- Powder with a powder puff over the top of the glue to seal. 
- Take a white foundation, I used Illamasqua Rich Liquid RF 100, and stipple the colour over the brow hairs. If your hairs are quite dark there will need to be layers of white to cover this.
- Stipple on the foundation with a stipple brush. 
- Using the foundation used for your base, stipple the skin colour over the white brow. 
- Powder to seal.







Above is the outcome of my design. Now that I have practised it I think I can develop my skills to make the eye stronger and the brows further blocked out. I think also that the face should be contoured a bit to give extra structure to the look. This is something I can develop.

Monday, 24 November 2014

Jackson Pollock

The late Jackson Pollock was heavily involved with the 1930's artistic movement. His work mainly consisted of drip paintings with the use of multiple colours. I have chosen to look at Jackson Pollock's work for the inspiration for my contemporary cabaret character. 

Jackson Pollock 6
Jackson Pollock. Viewed 26/11/14



The colour palette reminds me of that seen in Alexander McQueen's Last Show in 2010, almost 70 years later. I think that my character of Fraulein Kost would have hues of blue incorperated into her makeup to show that she is a cold character. Pollock created the look by flicking the paint onto the canvas, perhaps this could be a technique when applying the colour makeup onto the skin. 

Jackson Pollock 2
Jackson Pollock. Viewed 26/11/14

The painting Pollock created make me think of the emotional state that he was in during the creation of them. I enjoy how there are multiple shades of the same colour. Leading the eye through multiple stages of the piece to the centre where the lightness comes out. The whole painting makes me feel cold as though this is a beautiful but sad piece. I could portray this feeling into the design for Kost as she must be lonely going from man to man. 



Jackson Pollock struggled with alcohol through his entire life. Perhaps the paintings he created signify the emotional state that he was in. The Great Depression saw Pollock fall further into alcoholism where he created some of his best pieces of work. The colour palette has definitely inspired me to try out blue colouring within my design for contemporary cabaret character, along with purple shades inspired by Princess Julia. 

Princess Julia Blitz Kid

The inspiration behind my final makeup design comes from Alexander McQueen's 2010 Last Show and also Princess Julia, the original Blitz Kid in the 1980's. Princess Julia came to fame in the 1980's as part of the club culture known as the Blitz Kids. Her style was in keeping with the time, very out there and experimental. 

Princess Julia. 1980's. Viewed 26/11/14



Extreme, colourful makeup playing on the shapes and structure of the face. Her makeup was experimental, in keeping with the makeup styles seen in the 1980's like Leigh Bowery. Princess Julia made her way onto the 1980's club scene to become a DJ, something continued today. The whole styling of clothes and makeup made Princess Julia an interesting character. For example in the image above, she is covered, very conservative. However, in many other images she is seen exposing herself. Perhaps she liked the contradiction of characters that could be created through the medium of makeup, hair and styling. 

Princess Julia. Blitz Kids, 1980's. Viewed 26/11/14



The image of Princess Julia made me think straight away of Fraulein Kost and what she would have looked like in the this era. The dark lips and heavy eye make the look seductive, which is one of the main attributes of Fraulein Kost. The colour palette here also inspiration to me as it looks mysterious. To expand on the colour palette seen here I looked at Alexander McQueen's 2010 Last Show and the colour palette and textures used on the clothes. 

Alexander McQueen 2010 Last Show. Viewed 26/11/14

The mixing of the purple with the blue creates a subtle palette that can be mixed to create a makeup design. I definitely feel inspired by the colour palette seen here as the purples add a mysterious aspect with the blues bringing the cold. I think this represents the character of Fraulein Kost, because she is mysterious and then appears cold when confronting Schneider. Therefore I would like to incorporate blues and purples into my design.



The face chart above shows the hair and makeup look I have designed inspired by Princess Julia and Alexander McQueen. The design incorporates the colours of purple and blue with green around the eye. The eyebrows are thin to keep in keeping with the 1930's style.